Tuesday, August 9, 2016

Wherever I May Roam

I am sitting in Kelly's kitchen nook enjoying the quiet of the morning as it creeps towards noon. The space has come to feel very familiar to me since first visiting in February. Reuniting with the ladies of Iceland is a truly special way to bring an end to the first phase of my leave. As Jacquie and I approached Salt Lake City Thursday evening, each and every mile was accounted for by our eager eyes increasingly returning to the GPS screen to see how much longer we had to wait before we were reunited with our friends. Piling into Kelly's bed was hilarious, considering its size and the fact that there were four of us, but we were determined to try it regardless. Friday was an easy day - we ran errands and explored the city at a relaxing pace. We spoiled ourselves with delicious food as we awaited the arrival of Colleen, who would be touching down right before midnight. As I move through this apartment, I cannot help but feel warm waves of happiness at seeing the limbs flailing around comforters, the hair covering faces and the feet poking out over bed frames and couches of my dear friends.

But first, some backtracking.

Somehow the universe granted Jacquie and I the most incredible ending to an amazing week in Squamish.


Friday - July 29, 2016

This was a dog day. We tried to find a classic, mellow multi-pitch climb and instead ended up on a ridiculously slick slab. Rather than battle the summer heat and the rock to move further up the mountainside, we decided to bail and head for easier ground. Even there, I found myself exhausted and completely tapped out. The rock can be a great teacher - it empowers me, humbles me, aggravates me and reenergizes me. In returning to the sport, I have learned to push through the mental and physical blockades and continue to climb when I know I can continue. Other times, I am forced to accept my shortcomings as an opportunity to grow stronger. When nightfall came, we put food in our bellies and hoped for a better day to follow.

Climbs ticked: One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (Sport 5.10c, bail), Cat Crack (Trad 5.7), Mousetrap (Trad 5.7)


Saturday - July 30, 2016

Jacquie and I managed to get out of bed at a decent hour. After a quick meal, we returned to the South Apron to find the climb we had overlooked the day before. This climb was incredibly easy-going which was exactly what we had been hoping for. Eight great quality pitches of 5.7 climbing traversing over slab, moving up cracks, water runnels and flakes. After descending, we jumped in the car and headed back to Chek to find Mark, who was climbing with some friends from his hometown of Everett. Jacquie crushed a few climbs - Creeping Right (10d) and Rug Munchers (11d) and as we began to pack up, we anxiously wondered where Andrew had run off to. Our plan was to head to Vancouver after Mark and I climbed Starchek and we wanted to be able to trade farewells before parting our separate ways. Just as we were heading out of the crag to get to the cars, Andrew popped into view to everyone's relief. We then decided that the four of us would venture to Starchek to have a last group climb together. The approach dropped us down into a valley and across a massive talus field. We precariously crossed it and found a number of rope ladders that brought us to the beginning of the climb - the base of an arete jutting up from the foaming Cheakamus River. Mark and I eagerly jumped onto the climb - he led Pitches 1 and 3. I was eager to lead Pitch 2, which was twice as long as the other pitches. The climb was airy and incredible - wind whipped around you and the river rushed below giving me surges of adrenaline with every move. As I set up the belay to bring Mark up, all I could think of as I gazed west to see Tricouni Peak on the horizon above the gorge and the Cheakamus River was that I hoped to dream of this place. It was the climb I never wanted to end.

Climbs: Banana Peel (Trad 5.7, 8 pitches), Creeping Right (Sport 5.10d), Starchek (Sport 5.9, 3 pitches)


Sunday - July 31, 2016

The evening before we had slept in Vancouver after another night of salsa dancing. We dipped back down into the states and drove through Washington into Oregon with Portland being our end destination. We wandered through the Southwest and Northeast quadrants of the city. I had a heavenly food truck experience at Hey Stella's Cocina, apparently rated the 5th best food truck in Portland after 2 years of service. Arepas, patacon pisaos and maduros galore! Jacquie found a swing event to cap off our evening. It was awesome to see Jacquie in her element - I think what has been the most awesome about choosing Jacquie as my climbing partner for this roadtrip was that despite the fact that our specialities / preferences laid in different styles, we have both been very eager to delve into the other's realm. Jacquie has grown into an incredibly strong sport climber over the years while making a great effort to learn traditional climbing and she has a real love for swing dancing. I have worked to hone my traditional climbing skills for the past 2-3 years and have always felt best when dancing salsa. I never intended for the roadtrip to also include sampling dance socials along the way, but flip flopping between both climbing methods and dances made this journey become my dream trip. It is such an interesting thing to observe the ease at which Jacquie will sail up a pumpy and technical sport route, while her body language for traditional climbing is slower and much more thoughtful. Trad will do that to you. It is also amazing to watch her swing dance - her smile and personality makes every Charleston and Lindy move look so easy and fun. I feel that over these past few weeks, we have seen each other in their respective element and our respect and gratitude for one another's skill sets have grown as a result.

The nature of climbing brings out a vulnerability to every individual who pursues it - intentional or not. When you are on the sharp end, your partner has an opportunity to see you at your most raw. It is a unique and subtle window. Through it you can see their fear, their excitement, their anger and their success. If used correctly, that window can lead to hallways of further understanding of that person and if you are lucky and willing, it can also lead to a better understanding of yourself.


Monday - August 1, 2016

We rolled into the Smith Rock Bivouac Area at about 1pm with every intention of setting up camp and getting some climbs in, but in true form the rest of the day became completely shot by our languidity (apparently, this is not a word but it sounds better than languidness). We found a campsite, moved the campsite, completely emptied out the car, sorted and rearranged gear and equipment, lounged in our camp chairs that overlooked Phoenix Buttress, read our books, then finally decided to get moving - though it was not to climb. Instead, we decided to walk 1.8 miles back into Terrebonne to check out the gear shop, RedPoint. At the gear shop, there was a great woman working there who helped us get some ideas of where to climb while skirting away from the blazing sun. Initially we had planned to bring back food to cook, but we both decided that we were far too hungry and walked far too slow to be able to wait until returning to camp to eat. Base Camp Pizza became our destination and we happily settled into the back corner of their outdoor seating, enjoying cold beers and the summer weather. Pizza, wings and beer were the perfect nightcaps and we walked back to camp cracking up about random topics as good friends do. We were startled by a steer that came stampeding up to the barricade as we walked passed and could only proceed without provoking the steer further by shutting off our headlamps. We were grateful to be returning to a stationary home that was already set up and ready to receive our sleepy bodies. Sleep came intermittently, however, because this was the first night in several weeks that we were actually settling down into a setup different from the car. Thankfully, exhaustion eventually got the better of us and we sank into a deep sleep.


Tuesday - August 2, 2016

With every intention to follow the guidance given to us to avoid the sun, we ate breakfast, prepared our gear, went back to the gear shop to rent a stick clip, parked in a day use lot, moved the car after the machine would not accept the bills we had, parked in the same lot as our campsite and ended up completely missing our window of opportunity to cross Asterisk Pass. Instead, we forded a river and was indicated by two women belonging to the Smith Rock "Climb Like a Girl" group that the Phoenix Buttress right above us had a number of great climbs to get onto. The basalt rock at Smith was unreal. While Squamish will always hold a sentimental space in my heart, the climbing at Smith was sublime. Balancing on knobs and pulling monopods, shifting body weight and working toes up the sticky rock to reach the top. The Phoenix was an incredible lead with one very committing move that made the whole climb feel like a great accomplishment. Nine Gallon Buckets had very tricky moves to start on both pitches - the start of the first pitch had Jacquie and I puzzled for a few minutes. What made it more awkward was that we couldn't quite stickclip the first bolt because a quickdraw had been left behind by another party who had apparently bailed. In any case, the 5.9 pitch eased up after the beginning to some awesome huecos that left you a little bit pumped. Jacquie lead the second pitch and when it was my turn to follow her, I was blown away about how she worked through the 10c section with very little issue. While I could have just been dehydrated from heat, I was pretty certain that this section of climb was just beyond my normal climbing capacity. As I tried to work through the crux, a group of young climbers from a camp came by pointing and loudly asking each other why we were doing the climb in two pitches. I thought it was hilarious and wanted to say it was because we were noobs, but the group soon passed and simulrapped back to the base of the climb - a technique that I had never actually used before.

We hiked back to camp then headed into town to get supplies for dinner. Macaroni and cheese with bacon, onions and tomatoes was on the menu for the evening. For whatever reason, we thought it would be a good idea to each get a 40oz of beer. The day drew to a close with me nearly falling asleep on my hammock, gazing at the stars peaking through the trees above me.

Climbs ticked: Hissing Llamas (Sport 5.8), Phoenix (Sport 5.10a), Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em (Sport 5.10a), Five Gallon Buckets (5.8), Nine Gallon Buckets (5.10c, 2 pitches)


Wednesday - August 3, 2016

Any day that begins with a breakfast of eggs and bacon is a good one - this day was no exception. Eventually Asterisk Pass was found and maneuvered through (made slightly more complicated by the passing of our stickclip) and we touched down at Mesa Verde Wall. The climbing was stellar but limited both by our climbing capacity and general interest so we moved on to Wherever I May Roam, a multi-pitch climb that had been repeatedly recommended to us. The climb certainly deserved the name, first mounting a boulder, then crossing a chimney to gain elevation on the face of the cliff, making moves over an exposed traverse, up an arĂȘte and finally working up slab to the very top. The breathtaking view at the top of the climb showcased the shortest distance between sections of the Crooked River as they horseshoed around rock out of sight behind us. Again, we were granted a wonderful send off. The next day would be the first and only early day we would have on the entire trip - a 6am start into a ten hour day of driving to see our beautiful friends reunited in Salt Lake City.

Climbs ticked: Cosmos (Sport 5.10a), Screaming Yellow Zonkers (Sport 5.10b), Wherever I May Roam (Sport 5.9, 5 pitches)


1 comment:

  1. My simple outsider understanding of climbing involves equal parts abs-of-steel and badassery as you move your body in an intricate way up rocks. But now this blog with all your climbing lingo and route names and itineraries and mentions of gear and all.... damn, it really is a world and culture of its own. Definitely one of the things I admire about you, all the confidence and positive energy it takes to open up to new adventures, new people, new challenges.
    ~ Flirting with danger ~ "A mind that is stretched by new experiences can never go back to its old dimensions." ;P

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